Complex challenges drive food insecurity in New Hampshire

The farm stand at Apple Hill Farm in East Concord.

The farm stand at Apple Hill Farm in East Concord. GEOFF FORESTER/Monitor staff

By SRUTHI GOPALAKRISHNAN

Monitor staff

Published: 06-06-2024 3:41 PM

Modified: 06-06-2024 3:54 PM


In New Hampshire, it’s estimated that 24% of landfill waste is composed of food, ranging from grocery store surpluses and imperfect farm produce to rotten leftovers and forgotten bananas on countertops.

At the same time, the state faces a growing hunger crisis, with nearly 1 in 10 residents experiencing food insecurity, as highlighted by a recent Feeding America report.

While the issues of food waste and food insecurity are intertwined, Jess Carson, the director of the Center for Social Policy in Practice at the University of New Hampshire, points out that their relationship is complex and not unique to New Hampshire.

One major challenge is food transportation before items near expiration or are on the brink of spoilage.

“The logistics of making sure that we’re able to move the food from the places where it is to the places where it needs to be is a practical barrier that I think takes some solving no matter where you are and certainly in New Hampshire where distances can be long,” said Carson.

In 2023, the New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services (DES) reported that 171,785 tons of food waste from in-state sources such as residents, businesses and institutions were sent to landfills. This estimate assumes that 24% of the municipal waste landfilled is food waste, aligning with the EPA’s nationwide figures for food waste generation.

However, Eileen Liponis, the executive director of the New Hampshire Food Bank, suggested that a significant portion of this food waste was likely not consumable.

The New Hampshire Food Bank has seen considerable support from local farmers and grocery stores in tackling food insecurity.

Article continues after...

Yesterday's Most Read Articles

Farmers across the state often donate excess produce, particularly if they feel it isn’t saleable. Grocery stores like Shaw’s and Hannaford Supermarket participate in programs such as Fresh Rescue, which aims to prevent food waste by freezing and donating surplus protein to the food bank.

Since the pandemic, Liponis pointed out that the quantity of food donations from grocery partners has significantly decreased.

“We’re seeing less leftover for us,” she said. Liponis explained that for the food bank's operations, they are now purchasing over 600% to nearly 700% more than they used to. "That's a substantial difference."

One complicating factor in food donations is the inconsistency in food labeling, with terms like “best before,” “sell by,” and “use by” often causing confusion about food safety.

When the food bank receives pallets of food approaching their expiration dates, they reach out to manufacturers to verify if the items can be safely consumed beyond their labeled dates and possibly extend their expiration before collecting and distributing them to those in need. This process is crucial in ensuring that the food distributed is safe, but it adds another layer of complexity to food donation logistics.

Disparity in access

The distribution of food stores across New Hampshire also highlights disparities that contribute to food insecurity, particularly in northern areas like Coos County, which has the state’s highest food insecurity rate at 13.3%.

These areas often lack sufficient grocery stores due to lower population densities, creating “food deserts” where access to affordable, nutritious food is limited and often takes a long distance to get to.

Supermarket chains and grocery stores are typically clustered in the more densely populated southern regions of the state. However, even in these areas, there are sizable swathes where access to purchasing groceries is challenging.

“There are places in the state where it’s quite a long distance to the nearest kind of store and just because it’s not densely populated, doesn’t mean that nobody lives there,” said Carson. “So we need to be thinking not just about the rural nature, but also about the ways that people get to purchase and transport the food they need.”

The state’s overall food insecurity rate is 9.7%, with Merrimack County slightly surpassing this figure at 9.8%. Additionally, the average cost of a meal in New Hampshire is $4.11.

However, across all counties, children experience significantly higher levels of food insecurity.

As of April 1, data from New Hampshire Hunger Solutions revealed that 41% of adults and 54% of children in the state lived in households reporting insufficient food.

Addressing this issue is intrinsically linked to addressing poverty, explained Liponis.

“Food is usually at the end of the list,” she said, emphasizing that basic necessities like housing, utilities, and other essential bills take precedence. What remains in the budget for families is then allocated to food, impacting the ability to purchase more nutritious options.

“Those are the necessities and then what’s left you make do and get the food that you can with it. So if there’s more leftover to be disposable, then you’re able to buy the more nutritious food that you need,” she said.

Despite the existence of the federal Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) to assist low-income families in buying nutritious food, many eligible residents in New Hampshire are not enrolled.

In January 2023, New Hampshire expanded SNAP's income eligibility to 200% of the federal poverty line. 

However, the  New Hampshire Hunger Solutions reports that as of June 2023, less than one-third of the eligible population had enrolled.

Liponis noted that low enrollment is primarily among the elderly, who often feel that others need assistance more than they do. Additionally, the LGBTQ+ community is underserved due to the added stigma of seeking help for food while also facing stigma related to their identity.

Addressing food insecurity requires a collaborative effort involving the implementation of policies aimed at food security, minimizing food waste, and providing outreach and education about available opportunities.

“There's no silver bullet for food security,” said Carson. “It's a consistent player, making sure that folks know how to and are able to and are comfortable leveraging our federal nutrition safety nets.”